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A beautiful crochet tote bag for trips to the store, farmers market, library, or anywhere else you’re spending your day, the Slightly Twisted Tote works up quickly in a spiraling, raised texture that is to die for. The full pattern is available here in this blog post.
This pattern is also available as an ad-free printable pdf in my shop.
The Inspiration
After making the Day at the Market Bag, I wanted to make another bag that was a little thicker stitched. Looking at the raised stitches I thought, “How hard would it be to make a spiral?” Turns out, not that hard. The most difficult part would be figuring out what to call the stitch used because I’d never used one in a pattern. Eventually, the internet came through and the stitch now has a name.
The Slightly Twisted Tote is a little less stretchy that the Day at the Market Bag, which is exactly what I was going for. I absolutely love how it turned out! It’s a perfect addition to your reusable collection of totes and bags.
The Tutorials
I’m not going to lie, this tutorial is long. The full tutorial is an hour. That’s a lot of video. So, while I’m still going to release the video in its full glory, I’m also going to release it as a series with 3 parts. You can choose how you want to go about it.
Left-handed? Check out the left-handed version HERE!
The Yarn
The red color of this bag is amazing! Stunning, really. I was looking forward to finding a use for it. I created this bag using Lion Brand’s Heartland yarn. The yarn comes in many beautiful shades. For this bag, I settled on Redwood. This is an inexpensive acrylic yarn with a nice sheen. I love how it makes the texture pop even though it’s a darker shade. The color is not completely solid, but heathered. It adds so much to the look! It also has a wonderful, soft feel to it and great drape. Another perk is that it washes well.
Of course you can use any worsted weight yarn you would like. Yarns do vary, even within the same category. A tip for finding a comparable yarn is to check the yds/g (or m/g). If they’re pretty close, they should be comparable. The Heartland yarn I used to design the pattern, it is about 1.77 yds per g (251 yds/142g = 1.77).
You could experiment with fibers as well. Or try an ombre yarn for color variation. Maybe use a second color for the textured part? Have fun with it!
Products used in video:
Yarn: Lion Brand Heartland (Redwood)
Hooks: Clover Amour Hooks
The Pattern
Get the ad-free printable PDF HERE.
Pin it on Pinterest HERE.
Add to your Ravelry queue HERE.
Materials Needed
Worsted Weight yarn (625yds/475m)
*Pictured bag: Lion Brand Heartland (Redwood)
Hook: I/9 5.50mm
Stitch Markers (5)
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Gauge & Finished Measurements
Gauge is not critical for this pattern. The bag pictured was 4” = 16 sts / 16 rows (Base) and 4” = 14 sts / 7 rows (Textured).
Finished Measurements will depend on gauge. The bag pictured measures about 14.5” (H) x 14” (W) when lying flat, not including the handles.
Abbreviations
yo = yarn over
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
Dc-FPtr tog = double crochet/front post treble together
Special Stitches
Dc-FPtr tog: Yo, insert hook in next st & pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops. You should have 2 loops on the hook. Yo twice, skip next 2 stitches & insert hook from front to back to front around next stitch in rnd below. Yo and draw up a loop. [Yo, draw through 2 loops on hook.] 2 times. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Stitch will be raised.
Invisible Fasten Off: At the end of the round cut yarn leaving a 4-5” tail. Pull loop until cut end is drawn completely through. Thread cut end through yarn needle. In the next stitch, insert needle from the back and through both loops. Pull yarn through completely, being careful not to pull too tightly. Insert needle in the middle of the previous stitch and under front bar of the stitch. Pull through completely.
Instructions: **US Terms**
(UK Terms available in Printable PDF)
NOTE: Pattern is worked bottom-up in the round.
Ch 34
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch, 2 sc. Sc in each of next 31 ch. 3 sc in end ch. Working down other side, sc in each of next 31 ch. Do not join. Do not turn. (68 sts)
Rnd 2: Working in a continuous round, sc in 1st st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in last st. (72 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in 1st st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in next st. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc in each of next 31 sts. 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. (80 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in 1st st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 33 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 4 times. Sc in each of next 32 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in last st. (88 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in 1st st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 37 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 4 times. Sc in each of next 36 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in last st. (96 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each of 1st 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 39 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in next st. [Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in each of next 39 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. (104 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in each of 1st 3 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 41 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in each of next 3 sts. [Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in each of next 41 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] 2 times. Sc in last st. (112 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each of 1st 4 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 43 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 7 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 43 sts. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in each of next 3 sts. (120 sts)
Rnd 9: Sl st in each st around. (120 sts)
Rnd 10: Working around both sl st from Rnd 9 and sc from Rnd 8, sc in each st around. (120 sts)
Rnd 11-16: Sc in each st around. (120sts)
Rnd 17: Sc in each st around. Add stitches as needed to reach center of the side of the bag, where the fold will be. Join with a sl st. (120 sts)
Rnd 18: Ch 2. Does not count as st. Dc in each st around. Join with a sl st. (120 sts)
Rnd 19: Ch 2. Does not count as st. [Dc-Fptr tog in next st. Dc in each of 2 skipped sts.] 40 times. Join with sl st. (120 sts)
Rnd 20-37: Repeat rnd 19 working the FPtr around the FPtr from the rnd below. This creates a continuous spiral look of the bag.
Rnd 38: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Do not join. (120 sts)
Rnd 39-42: Working in a continuous rnd, sc in each st around. (120 sts)
Lay bag flat. Center last stitch of last round in fold. You may need to add or subtract sts.
Rnd 43: Sc in 1st 15 sts. Ch 70. Skip next 30 sts. Sc in each of next 30 sts. Ch 70. Skip next 30 sts. Sc in each of last 15 sts. (200 sts)
Rnd 44: Sc in 1st 15 sts. Sc in back loop of each of next 70 ch. Sc in each of next 30 sts. Sc in back loop of each of next 70 ch. Sc in each of last 15 sts. (200 sts)
Rnd 45-49: Sc in each st around. (200 sts)
Join with sl st.
Fasten off using Invisible Fasten Off.
Weave in ends.
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I think that you mean repeat row 19 not 18. Is that correct. And what is the fold you’re speaking of. I don’t see any instructions for creating a fold. Thank you. And this bag is really pretty. Thank you for sharing it with us
You are correct. That should have read repeat row 19. I’ve corrected it now, thanks!
The fold is referring to when you lay the bag flat. The folds are basically just the center of the sides of the bag. So, you’ll want to start that row centered in the fold (or centered on the side) so that you’re handles will be centered with the front and back of the bag.
Hope that helps!
Usually do not comment, but your video is so helpful and clear. Explaining along with reference to written pattern and how to make the stitches without dragging the steps out. For me, your timing is the best I’ve seen. Good Job! Thank you so very much.
Thank you so much! I’m so glad it’s been helpful. Happy crocheting!
I agree
Just an FYI, I wanted a more open market bag but really liked the look and idea of the slightly twisted tote. So I changed it by making the Dc-FPtr tog, Dc in the 2 skipped sts, then ch-2, skip 2 (repeating through the round). The second round has to start with a ch-5 (equals a Dc and ch-2 that ends the last Dc-FPtr tog group of the row). So only two round repeat. Hope this makes sense, I don’t know how to properly explain a pattern. But I had to tell you because I like very much this slightly twisted open tote pattern. You are welcome to it if you like it too. Thank you again for the initial pattern.
Hi, this design is very pretty. Thank you for the helpful video as well. I’m trying to follow it, but it seems like the written instruction for Rnd 3 should start with 2sc in first st. Then sc in next st. Then 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. In order to match the video instructions of the “2,2,1,2,2” pattern in the end?
Thank you for the great design and being so helpful in teaching people like me how to create beautiful, useful things!
I’m so sorry, I just rewatched your video again. I was wrong. I think I keep pausing and restarting the video and I fast forwarded past where you said single st in first loop. Your video is consistent w the written instructions! My mistake!!